Much was made, not long ago, of the discovery on a British beach of a whacking great lump of greyish-beige waxy material which turned out to be worth thousands of pounds. (Literally, it was a medium of exchange, a form of money.) LOccitane de ProvenceCitrus Verbena Intense Chopard Casmir Its used to beautiful effect in gourmand fragrances, and blends with woods and earthy notes, too. Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Este Lauder Sensuous ChloLEau deChlo The nectar-like aroma you smell in a peach-y fragrance, though, may actually be a synthetic: aldehyde C14 (a.k.a. Nina Ricci LAir Some flower just once a year, for a single night a blink-and-youll-miss-it pleasure that happily can be captured in a bottle and enjoyed 24/7, Dior Addict (Blackcurrant leaves can smell a little catty when you rub them between your finger though in a fragrance, that wont be apparent.) Floris Lily of the Valley Prada Infusion dIris Its bittersweet freshness works well in Colognes and summer scents, when a shot of green is called for. Were not sure why the three balsamic ingredients (copaiba, Peru and tolu) have the word balsam first balsam of but that seems to be the tradition. This spice has been in use for thousands of years: Pliny described an unguent of fenugreek, and the roots were also used in early Arab perfumery. Numbers of musk deer dwindled, unsurprisingly, because it took 140 musk deer to produce a kilo of perfume ingredient. I had to see what it was like, then I fell totally in love with it. A modern synthetic note created by Givaudan, who behind-the-scenes create countless fragrances for the perfume world. Guerlain Chamade Eugenol is the main element in clove essential oil and also found in other plants, including allspice, bay, cinnamon leaf, patchouli and pimento. Its derived from a tree in Central and South America (Copaifera officinalis) and acts as a base note and fixative. Marc Jacobs Oh Lola! Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Granville It also has the rosy notes of tea leaves," says perfumer Jacques Huclier. Traditionally used as a medicinal herb - mostly in order to treat stomach ache and nausea - the Menthol mint essential oil (used at 4090% concentration in compositions) has long been enjoyed for its skin-cooling and spirit-reviving properties in Colognes, perfumes and cosmetic products, and overall, mint is enjoying something of a resurgence in both male and female fragrances over the past few years. There are a few scents, yes, which capture the sweet, grassy, earthy warmth of hay, which also has almost animalic qualities. Guerlain Rose Barbare Down the centuries, then, incense has been burned as a part of religious rites, as a fumigant to cleanse the air and kill germs or simply for the pure joy of its perfume. Watch out for peach blossom becoming a more popular perfume ingredient, as the influence of the Middle East which has made for so many heady perfumes in recent years moves East, in response to the dawning love of fragrance among the Chinese. As perfumer Andy Tauer tells The Perfume Society, 'Lilac in perfumes is the note of spring, the promise of summer.'. Diptyque Ofresia Do you hate it? David & Victoria Beckham Instinct Goutal Eau dHadrien, Vanilla doesnt just smell sweet, nuzzleable and delectably comforting: its kind of magic, in flavour and perfume terms. But pine can also be wonderful crisp, spicy, outdoorsy and invigorating and its been closely linked to perfume creation since the time of the early Arab perfumers, who liked it in combination with frankincense, in particular. Ever smelled a scent that seems like its dripping in honey? Or C8 octanal which is reminiscent of oranges. Demeter Mango Katy Perry Meow Collection of agarwood from natural forests is now illegal under CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endanged Species of Wild Fauna and Flora), but some is now beginning to be plantation grown in Vietnam. In modern fragrance, lavender is lightly used in feminine scents, although it turns up in plenty of shared colognes and mens fragrances; it works well alongside other aromatic ingredients like pine, sage and rosemary, as well as patchouli, oakmoss, bergamot, neroli and orange blossom. ), and Egyptian, Roman, Persian, Chinese, Greek and Arab empires have also used it made ceremonial, medicinal and culinary use of opium poppies. Floris China Rose Givenchy Le de Givenchy Theyre often eaten raw, to enjoy the sweet/sour flavour blend from the thin rind, contrasted with the juicy flesh. Cinnamomum cassia even has cinnamon in its botanical name, and is known sometimes as Chinese cinnamon, or even false cinnamon. Its seriously low-maintenance: the name rosemary comes from the Latin for dew (ros) and sea (marinus), because all it needs is the humidity of a sea breeze to flourish. Comme des Garons Odeur 53 A little bit birch tar-y, even tarmac-y. (Jasmines one of the priciest ingredients in perfumery.) Once cut, theyre turned frequently to prevent them breaking down too quickly. Voluptuous, so voluptuous. So with the rise in gourmand fragrances, marshmallow has begun to feature as a fantasy note in perfumes, adding an airy sweetness, sometimes with a toasted marshmallow edge. Some noses played around with ingredients like patchouli, or synthetic imitations of oakmoss to try to achieve some of the same effects as this wonder of the natural scent world, but theres no question that some favourite fragrances started not to smell like themselves. (Today, a synthetic coumarin is widely used.) Salvatore Ferragamo Signorina In Fiore Used in perfumes since ancient times, vetivers more popular than ever and features very, very widely in the base of fragrances because it works brilliantly as a fixative and so far, nobody seems to have come up with a satisfactory synthetic alternative. In general, they lend themselves well to mens scents, though there are some feminine examples, too. Thats because it takes almost forever to produce oudh, which is actually the resinous heart-wood from fast-growing evergreen trees usually the Aquilaria tree. Theres something about the voluptuous but fragile beauty of peonies that makes them truly evocative and sensual, as a perfume ingredient. Penhaligons Juniper Sling. Its rare, and seriously expensive, and even endangered: as its become more popular, high-quality oud is becoming hard to source. To extract the deep, sweet woodiness, wood or root chippings are steam-distilled. (An idea wed rather like to see revived) Iris has long been a symbol of majesty and power, too. Produced by small trees (Boswellia genus), it releases a gum-like resin that solidifies into droplets or tears. Its light and flighty though, so it works as a top note then flits off, leaving an impression but not hanging around to be judged. (Doesnt mean it will. Indole is sexy, powerful, intense va-va-voom, in a bottle. This yes spicy ingredient comes from the dried, unripe berries of the Pimenta dioica (pimento), an evergreen tree that flourishes in the Caribbean, Mexico, and Central America. Robert Piguet Mademoiselle Piguet But although violet has been giving up its sweetness to perfumers since the time of early Arab perfumers, who perfected a technique for distilling the oil, it was Empress Marie Louise Bonaparte who really put Viola odorata on the scent-map, establishing the violet industry in Parma which thrives to this day. The idea is that watery fragrances should actually should smell breezy, outdoorsy, like the mist thats in the air when we take a walk on a beach with the surf crashing against the sand. A perfect ingredient to blend with patchouli and spices. WebSeeds: Seeds are common features in the world of perfume making, and the most common ones include: anise, nutmeg, tonka beans, coriander, cocoa, carrot seed, In Ambre structures,it has a sweet, comforting effect, taking you back to childhood. Many of us are familiar with blackberry-picking ourselves: the Rubus fruticosus bramble tangles itself over countless hedgerows, perfect for turning into desserts, jams, jellies and even home-made wine. Bracing, uplifting and almost nose-tinglingly spicy, ginger pairs beautifully with vanilla, woody notes and citrus, as well as white flowers like jasmine and neroli. This member of the citrus family is native to south Asia and has long been cultivated in Japan, Taiwan and the Philippines, too. (Theyre left in a cool, dry place, and need protection against fungus and insect attack which would destroy the producers valuable harvest.). Este Lauder Private Collection Galbanum essential oil is quite different to the gum: intensely green, slightly bitter, earthy. Bees love these intoxicating blooms: when you taste acacia honey, this is the tree whose pollen the bees have dipped into. In the Victorians language of flowers, gardenia stood for refinement and purity. It has a waxy, soft floral quality, in perfumes almost as if it lightly dusts the perfume with pollen. Les Couvent de Minimes Eau de Mtines IV Violette Gucci Envy Elizabeth Arden Fifth Avenue In ancient Arabic perfumery, basil was known as the king of the fragrant plants. Isabella RosselliniManifesto Tom Ford Black Orchid The use of this gloriously purple-coloured plant in perfumery goes right the way back to Ancient Egypt. I love to use it because it's big and powerful, very sensual. A mighty tree, a mighty base note: this giant redwood member of the cypress family, which grows for thousands of years, is becoming popular in mens fragrances and a handful of womens, for its dry earthiness. Atelier Cologne Ambre Nu Its highly skilled work, and only a few distilleries produce patchouli of a high enough quality to please a VIP nose, or creator. There are around 200 different types of magnolia (named after a renowned French botanist, Pierre Magnol, who came up with the concept of classifying flora into plant families). Caron Narcisse Noir Gardenia (tiare) petals macerated in coconut oil, monoi is sometimes called Monoi de Tahiti. Chanel Coco Noir Perfumery isnt the most familiar use of flax (a.k.a. Tom Ford White Musk Collection White Suede. Dior Miss Dior The darkness of tobacco sets the flower petals in fire. But whatever the source, theres no getting away from castoreums seriously musky sensuality, which also has a hint of fruitiness. Paco Rabanne Lady Million. Its my new favourite word. (Closer to home, this shiny-leafed exotic can often be found on sale as a potted plant in garden centres and some natural food stores: one single open flower can perfume a room, its so heady and lush.). These days youve got synthetics which are much easier to use, cheaper to buy and hang around for longer and act more rapidly. Tangerine is one of the genuine natural fragrances that has the same effect. In summer scents, in particular, kiwi adds a refreshing sweetness. (The actual aroma compound itself is called oxane, FYI.) Its a harvest for patient souls: juniper berries (which can be blue, red-brown or orange) take three years to ripen, and are steam-distilled to release their pungency. (Do please completely ignore the word rose in its name.). Used as a less-expensive alternative to vanilla, although has become popular on its own. Since the time of the early Arab perfumers, the flesh of peach kernels was used in scents and ointments. Jimmy Choo Jimmy Choo ", Natural musk comes from the glands of the musk deer and is one of the most expensive perfume ingredients. In modern day perfumery the scent of apricot is re-created synthetically, most often for a soft, almost fuzzy fruitiness. "I love this ingredient because it takes me to the beach. ), while others describe it as creamy, musky or labdanum-like. (Nectarine goes particularly well with fruity notes, actually.) Strictly, white chocolate isnt chocolate at all: its created from cocoa butter, sugar, vanilla. Guerlain Shalimar When you read the note incense in a fragrance, if often means frankincense. In reality, rosewater is the poor relation of the true rose scent, from the oil thats so essential a component of the perfumes which today send our senses into a delicious spin. ', He continues: 'I do not use that many fruit chords in my creations, butraspberry is just perfect with roses. It can be a skin sensitiser for some people, and is therefore listed on fragrance packaging so that it can be avoided by those who have a problem. Do smell deep, though, and see if you can detect intrigue beneath the soft surface. GoutalParis Grand Amour Boadicea The Victorious Magnificent Philosophy Love Jo Malone London Lime, Basil & Mandarin Rosemary wasnt known to the Arab perfumers, but it started to be distilled as an oil in the 15th Century, and was a key ingredient in one of the first modern perfumes, Hungary Water. A fragrance without roses is almost as unthinkable as a love affair without kisses. Clarins Eau Dynamisante Thirdman Eau Monumentale. Its long been considered to have aphrodisiac properties, when eaten though if spicy scents turn you on, maybe when dabbed onto pulse-points, too. Guerlain Shalimar Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine (Strictly it should probably be a solifruit, but there you go.) Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile "It turns a scent into a chypre, into a fougere, into an amber. The fruit can be round, or oval, depending on which species youre looking at and the skins can range from yellow or green to maroon. Vera Wang Vera, Deadly nightshade. And, adds Alienor Massenet, 'it's very animalic'. Usually, the whale vomits these sharp bits. Cartier Dlices de Cartier He echoes our comment above: 'You have to make your leather chord. Lets call them "raspberry coup". Its also referred to in the Bible (as Balm of Gilead). Bury your nose in an amaryllis (do mind the pollen! Goutal Eau du Sud baies rose is also edible, though, with a citrussy flavour.). But not any more: this seriously exotic, intense, rich fragrance note is at the top of the price scale for ingredients though even so, its still present in as much as 40% of quality perfume creations. 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